In Spain, gypsies are called gitanos. Over 50% of all gypsies in Spain live in Andalusia.

History of the Gypsies

Although the gypsies originated in India, the word “gypsy” comes from a corruption of the word “Egyptian”. Likewise, the word “gitano” comes from the word “egiptano”, an archaic Spanish word that means “Egyptian”. These names came from the mistaken belief that the gypsies originated in Egypt.

When the gypsies entered Europe, the Europeans believed the gypsies were exiled from Egypt for harboring the baby Jesus. Consequently, they were initially welcomed with open arms. As time went on, however, the attitude and perception of the gypsies changed for the worse. In many areas there were attempts of forced integration and even genocide, including the holocaust.

The gitanos arrived in Andalusia during the last century of the Muslim reign of the Nasrid Dynasty. Most gypsies in Europe entered through Eastern Europe. However, the gitanos of Andalusia actually crossed over from Northern Africa to Spain via the Mediterranean Sea, probably near straight of Gibraltar.

In Granada, the gitanos settled in the caves of the Sacromonte, where they lived for hundreds of years. Many gitanos still live in the Sacromonte.

Gypsy Culture

Although many groups of gypsies are nomadic, the gitanos of Andalusia tend not to move from place to place.

In gitano culture, family, including extended family, is extremely important. The head of the household is the eldest male in the extended family (e.g. a grandfather). In order to marry, the bride must be a virgin. Once married, the woman’s role is to attend to the needs of her husband and children.

Only certain occupations are traditionally allowed within the Gypsy culture. These include performing (e.g. singing, dancing, music), smithing, and jeweler arts.

An important part of the gitano culture is music and dance.  Flamenco is the gitano art of music and dance that developed hundreds of years ago from the mixture of the native music and dance of the gypsies combined with the influence of Arabic and Western music and dance.

The gitanos of Andalusia speak Caló which is basically Spanish with a whole bunch of words borrowed from their original Romani language.

Where to See Gypsies

You can cross paths with gitanos all over the city of Granada. Most of the time, you may not even notice them. The surest way to see gitanos is to go to a Zambra (a flamenco “party”/show) in the Sacromonte.

How to Interact with Gypsies

Most gypsies are good and friendly people. Heck, Charlie Chaplin, the famous comedian of silent film, was a gypsy. And one of my good friends is a gypsy. Nevertheless, in traditional gypsy culture, the gypsies consider themselves almost like a different animal from the rest of us. They call themselves calé. The rest of us non-gypsies are payo. According to traditional gypsy culture, it’s OK for the calé to con the payos out of their money. So, it’s important to be alert and cautious around gypsies.

Among the favorite hangouts of the gitanos are the entrance to the Cathedral and the parking lot of the Alhambra. There, gypsy women will try to hand you a sprig of rosemary and offer to read your palm. Of course, if you let them, they’ll then ask you to pay them for their services.